Pan came off without too much twisting / turning, even with the exhaust crosspipe in the way. On reinstall, some anti-seize looks like it will be in order here. I'll use the easy-out like I did with the drain bolt (which was much bigger). Ok, got all but one out cleanly - snapped the head off the last one. Noticed that some of them were very hard to get out - was someone in here earlier? Did they overtighten or cross-thread them? Nope - it turns out that with age, heat, and time, the aluminum case apparently causes a chemical reaction with the pan bolts where they more or less fuse themselves to the case. A new drain bolt will be in order - or maybe the Dorman pan, since it drains more of the fluid out anyway. I got the thing out, finally, with the easy-out. Word of warning - for those with a drain bolt, apparently it's a notorious fact that the drain bolt is overtightened at the factory - and you'll likely round off the head of the 15mm bolt trying to get it off it's recessed as well. Before I start cleaning, replacing parts and reinstalling, I figured I'd break out the easy-out kit again and take care of the broken bolt.
![4l60e shift kit insll 4l60e shift kit insll](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/leR6KtWI4EA/hqdefault.jpg)
got the drain bolt out (with an easy-out), got the pan bolts out (broke one off in the back corner, by the shift linkage - about the worst place), pan off (didn't need to drop the exhaust / crosspipe), VB and separator plate out, and down to the case. I'm about midway through my shift kit install.